Simply reach out to me. Texting is the easiest way. Let me know your preferred day and time. I’m usually available most of the day, so scheduling is quick and flexible.

In addition to strings, I carry essentials like balls, replacement grips, overgrips, and dampeners. I also carry select Prince racquets:

• Prince Ripcord 100 280g (for beginner to intermediate)

• Prince ATS Textreme Tour 98 Carbon (for intermediate to advanced)

I provide a curated mix of best-selling and top-performing strings, offering variety for every player. Here’s an overview of the main types:

• Polyester: Low power, high spin potential. These are monofilament strings — stiff and not for the weak. I generally advise juniors & older players to avoid them due to increased risk of injury.

• Multifilament: Plenty of comfort and power. Made from many small fibers woven together. These strings can move around in the stringbed, which may bother some players.

• Fusion: A hybrid composite string. This newer type blends multifilament and polyester fibers using modern tech, offering a balance of comfort and control.

• Synthetic: Great value for players who play occasionally. Often found pre-strung in racquets when purchased new.

The old saying is play X times per week, then restring X times per year. But with today’s harder-hitting game, strings wear out faster and need restringing more often.

• Polyester: While durable, poly loses elasticity quickly and performance can drop sharply. Playing with “dead” strings increases the risk of injury, so restring regularly. If the strings stop sliding or start notching, it’s time to restring. Typical lifespan is 10–20 hours of play, depending on your hitting style and string type.

• Multifilament: These typically fray before they break, and many players use them until they snap. However, if the stringbed starts to feel too loose or unpredictable, it’s time to restring.

• Synthetic: Holds tension better than poly but less than multifilament. A durable, good-value option that can last until you upgrade. Restring if it starts to feel too loose or inconsistent.

Your racquet has a recommended tension range if you’re not sure where to start. It is generally advised to string polyester strings at a lower tension. To get a similar feel with a multifilament or synthetic gut, go 4–8 lbs higher.

The type of stringing machine can affect the result. Racquets strung on electronic constant-pull machines will feel tighter than racquets strung on manual machines, so a 2–3 lb adjustment is often needed to compensate.

Some players prefer the mains strung slightly tighter than the crosses. The longer mains require more tension to create a uniform stringbed, and a 2 lb difference is a good place to start if you want to try this setup.

I start every racquet service by cleaning the frame, fitting a fresh overgrip, and inspecting for any damage or issues.

I use two-piece stringing whenever possible, as it distributes tension more evenly. I start the mains using the Yusuki method, double-pulling the center mains. For the crosses, I begin with a clamp instead of a starting knot. Before tying off, I add 10% extra tension to the final string to reduce tension loss. I usually finish with a Parnell knot, and when the grommets allow, I prefer tying off crosses to crosses.

I use a Gamma X-ELS electronic constant-pull machine with a 6-point mounting system. Consistent and accurate tension is maintained with a Wise 2090 Precision Calibrator.