I’m here to help you navigate the endless options of tennis strings out there. I carry many of the most popular strings and aim to offer something for everyone. Here's a quick overview of the main types:

• Polyester: Low power, high spin potential. These are monofilament strings — stiff and not for the weak. I generally advise juniors & older players to avoid them due to increased risk of injury.

• Multifilament: Plenty of comfort and power. Made from many small fibers woven together. These strings can move around in the stringbed, which may bother some players.

• Fusion: A hybrid composite string. This newer type blends multifilament and polyester fibers using modern tech, offering a balance of comfort and control.

• Synthetic: Mainly about value. Ideal for players who only play occasionally. This is the type of strings that comes pre-installed in racquets sold at places like Target or Dick’s Sporting Goods.

The old saying is play X times per week, then restring X times per year. But with today’s harder-hitting game, strings wear out faster and need restringing more often.

• Polyester: I recommend restringing frequently to help prevent injury. While poly is durable, its elasticity and tension maintenance are poor. If the strings stop sliding or start notching, it’s time to restring. Expect 15–25 hours of play, depending on the string and how hard you hit. Pros and high-level players often restring after just a few hours.

• Multifilament: These typically fray before they break, and many players use them until they snap. However, if the stringbed starts to feel too loose or unpredictable, it’s time to restring.

• Synthetic: Holds tension better than poly but less than multifilament. A durable, good-value option that can last until you upgrade. Restring if it starts to feel too loose or inconsistent.

Your racquet has a recommended tension range if you’re not sure where to start. I generally advise stringing polyester strings at a lower tension. To get a similar feel with a multifilament or synthetic gut, go 5–10 lbs higher. Once you know your preferred tension and want to adjust for feel or power, I suggest changing by at least 2 lbs up or down.

Keep in mind that the stringer and machine used can affect the result. Manual machines typically feel slightly looser than electronic constant-pull machines. A 2 lb adjustment is usually enough to compensate.

I personally like when the mains are strung slightly tighter than the crosses. In theory, the longer mains need more tension to create a more uniform stringbed. A 2 lb difference is a good place to start if you want to try it.

I approach every racquet with the care I expect for my own.

I use two-piece stringing whenever possible. I start the mains using the Yusuki method, double-pulling the center mains. For the crosses, I begin with a clamp instead of a starting knot. Before tying off, I add 10% extra tension to the final string to reduce tension loss. I usually finish with a Parnell knot, but if space is tight, I use a pro knot instead. When the grommets allow, I prefer tying off crosses to crosses.

I use a Gamma X-ELS electronic constant-pull machine with a 6-point mounting system. Consistent and accurate tension is maintained with a Wise 2090 Precision Calibrator.